Learn Bookbinding - Hand Bookbinding

Bookbinding for Beginners - 18

2008-03-14T11:14:00.002+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Sketch Book

The problem is to make two separate hinged covers between which loose leaves may be bound, the whole to be fastened together with macramé or other cord. This may be designed for one of many uses, suggestions for several of which follow (see Plate XXII).
In making dimensioned sketches, for the various parts (see Plate XXIII) determine first the size of the pages and plan the covers to extend beyond them about one-eighth of an inch. Make the sketches of the pages and the news board foundations. Layout and cut the latter, of full size, and then from either a long or short side of each, in accordance with plan, cut a strip to form a hinge. The width of these strips may be from three-quarters of an inch to one inch. Vellum should be planned to cover completely one side of both pieces of each cover, to fold around the small piece and to lap over onto the large piece about one-half inch. It should also fold over the other three edges about one-half inch. (See Plate XXIV.)

The lining paper should cover to within about one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces and should not extend onto the hinge. Constant bending soon breaks paper, but with ordinary use does not affect the tough vellum. Make dimensioned sketches of these pieces (see Plate XXIII) and layout and cut all remaining parts.

Properly place main part of news board on vellum, drawing around it. Lay small part one-eighth of an inch from main part and draw around it. Remove the pieces of news board and apply paste to vellum inside the pencil line, being careful to cover the surface smoothly and evenly; lay both back pieces in place, turn the vellum over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum on the hinged side a small piece even with the edges of the hinges as far as the outside corners (see Plate XXIV), and clip off the outside corners as before described. Apply paste to projecting vellum, fold over first the hinged side and its opposite, then the other two sides, and rub down. Paste the lining paper in and dry the covers separately under weight. Remember to place newspaper or blotting paper between each pair, otherwise ~the moisture from one will cause wrinkles in the other. For the leaves, use drawing paper which may be cut singly or in folio (with single fold).

The latter method is preferable, as folded sheets are easier to place at the back, look better, and are more secure. Two holes in each cover are sufficient for the cord, but a little care should be taken to determine the best position for them. The distance of each from the end of the hinge strip should be from one-fifth to one sixth of its length and of course, they should be placed midway between the long edges. After punching the holes, see that the leaves are properly marked so that the holes in them will exactly fit the holes in the cover.

To do this, place one sheet on the cover, leaving correct margins, and through the center of each hole mark the paper which should then be punched. Treat the other sheets in the same manner. Eyelets should be inserted in the covers only, and for that purpose a good eyelet punch is necessary. Directions for its use and sample eyelets accompany punches when sent from the dealer. Complete by tying all together with a piece of cord. Make a small flat bow on the front cover.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 17

2008-03-10T14:33:00.004+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Needle Book

A NEEDLE-BOOK

This consists of covers with leaves of flannel. Decide upon the size of leaves, which should not be too large and in good proportion. One piece of flannel should form two leaves, as in booklets described in Problem 1.

Plan the covers to be one-eighth of an inch larger in each direction than the leaves. These should be constructed like the calendar mount already described in A, but the space between should be greater, perhaps three-eighths of an inch. Make dimensioned sketches of all parts. The parts should then be laid out, cut, and pasted. Finish the edges of the leaves by pinking (cutting in small points). Four leaves are sufficient. Sew them to the cover as described in Problem 1.A COVERED MEMORANDUM PAD Secure a small pad. Plan covers, as described in B, which shall project about one-eighth of an inch in each direction beyond the pad. Plan to have the space between them about 3/8 of an inch more than the thickness of the pad. When the covers are finished, paste the pad firmly to the inside of one cover. If desired, loops of vellum to hold the pencil may be pasted on the side of the pad, as describe in Problem 1.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 16

2008-01-25T08:43:00.001+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Another Calendar Stand

ANOTHER CALENDAR MOUNT
Plan the back standard to be smaller than the front instead of the same size. Plate XX suggests a suitable trapezoidal shape. In this case the vellum must be of the same length as before, but cut to fit the different widths of the news board
(compare Plate XXI).

Plan a narrow strip of vellum to line the hinge, as in A. Paste this piece and the outside covering as before. Cut the lining paper of the correct shapes and apply to the back.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 15

2008-01-25T08:43:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Calendar Stand

A CALENDAR STAND
First make or secure a calendar, which should be of small size. If desired, a picture may be used with the calendar, but it should harmonize with it in size and color. In such a case plan to have the space between the two much smaller than the margins, so that the eye will take them in as a group, and not as two separate objects. Decide on the margins as described in Problem II, and thus arrive at the proper size for one of the foundation pieces of news board. (See Plate XVIII.)

Make a dimensioned sketch of this piece, and plan to have two made of news board. For the outside covering plan a strip of vellum which shall be long enough to cover both pieces of news board when placed about one-eighth of an inch apart, and to make half-inch laps on each side and end. Plan a strip of vellum about an inch wide and as long as the width of the foundation pieces to form the back of the hinge; and two pieces of lining paper, each one-eighth of an inch smaller in both directions than the foundation pieces. Make dimensioned sketches of these pieces (see Plate XIX), layout and cut all parts.

In the center of the narrow strip of vellum mark off a space one-eighth of an inch wide, extending lengthwise of the strip. Apply paste and lay the two pieces of news board on the vellum and with edges against the lines drawn. Press hard on the news board, turn it over, and rub down the vellum. A hinge is thus formed for the two pieces of news board.

Lay these pieces on the large piece of vellum and draw around the whole. Apply paste to the vellum inside the pencil lines. Lay the double foundation on the pasted surface with the narrow strip of vellum on top. Rub down the outside surface very hard, leaving no wrinkles or rough places; clip the corners as described in Problem II, paste the laps, fold them over, rub them down, and line the mount with the pieces of marbled paper. Connect the front and back halves of the mount by a single or double strap of vellum pasted to the inside of each. Finish by pasting on the calendar and picture.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 14

2008-01-17T07:26:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Blotter

A BLOTTER
This is to be a more elaborate production than the blotter described in Problem III (D). Compare C, Plate XIV. First determine the size of the foundation, which may vary from small-blotter to desk-blotter size. Consider proportions very carefully. A small blotter admits greater variance between length and width than one of larger size. Make dimensioned drawings of foundation, front covering of vellum or cover paper, and back 'covering of marbled paper.

When the foundation has been cut and the front covering pasted on, plan the corners which are to consist of separate pieces. Determine their size by setting off a triangle at one corner with a rule or pencil, moving the rule or pencil to vary the size of the triangle until one of satisfactory size is decided upon.

Layout on paper a triangle of the chosen size. The thickness of the foundation, plus the thickness of the one or more sheets of blotting paper which are to be placed under the corners, must be taken into consideration. Before adding the laps which are to extend onto the back for half an inch or more experiment with patterns cut from paper (see Plate XVI).

The corners may be made of linen, vellum, cover paper, or skiver (a prepared leather which has been split by machinery). Cut them out by the pattern. To give a finish to the edge which is to be free, turn it over about ¼ of an inch. If leather is used, a portion of the under side along the edges should be additionally skived off, before turning over, to make the laps very thin. Cover paper, if used, may be re-enforced by pasting a piece of muslin onto the back.

These corners present an opportunity for applied design. The most satisfactory decoration for leather is "tooling." On the other materials suggested, a design may be applied by stenciling or block printing The designs should be simple and appropriate, (see Plates XVII), and the color scheme carefully planned. Unless a special study has been made of color harmonies, a combination of analogous colors or complementary colors is a wiser choice than a more complicated combination.

Practice on paper until a pattern is secured, and apply it to the corners by the method decided upon. When pasting on the decorated corners, the sheets of blotting paper should be placed on the foundation so that there will be room for their use. Paste the laps to the back of the foundation, being very careful to place the corners in exact position. Leave the sheets of blotting paper under the corners until after the whole has been pressed; otherwise the weight would crush the corners.

When putting in new sheets of blotting paper, they can be more easily slipped under the corners if a small triangle has been cut from each corner of the blotting paper. A sheet of lining paper about 3/8 of an inch shorter and narrower than the foundation should be pasted to the back. Dry all under weight.

Saddle Stitch Binding

2008-01-12T08:22:00.000+05:30

Saddle stitch binding is one of the simplest methods for binding books. It has been around for a while now and with the advancement of technology saddle stitching is done much faster and with ease. (video)

You can also start saddle stitching right now. The only thing you will need is a long arm stapler. Just take a bunch of papers and place them one above the other. Fold them to make a crease at the center. Now staple two or three times on the spine. That's it you have a saddle stitch binding ready.

This method is generally used for small booklets, brochures, notebooks, catalogs, pamphlets and other small books.

Many companies produce staplers for saddle stitching. These are specifically designed so that different types of books either short or long, very thin or somewhat thick can be easily stapled. You can even start a part time business with saddle stitching. One of the things you can try is make rough books.

People want cheap books for doing all kinds of stuff. Rough books can be used for any purpose you can think about. As it cost less people will want to buy them and use them. The things you will need are a saddle stitching stapler, rough papers and thick covers. Start making several books with fixed number of pages and sell them. If you do it properly, people will come in loads to buy them.

Since saddle stitch binding requires very less investment your profits will be
good. Just give it a try if you have spare time.

Saddle Stitch by Machine - Video

2008-01-09T11:17:00.000+05:30

Saddle stitch is the simplest way to bind a book. If you have a long arm stapler then you can do it by hand easily. Here is a video which shows how a machine makes saddle stitch. Machines are making many things easier for us and they also do the tasks quickly.

Watch the video and enjoy..

8 Important Bookbinding Instructions-Part 2

2008-01-05T15:59:00.004+05:30

In the first part we saw the importance of patience, planning and list of materials. Here are the remaining 5 bookbinding instructions.

1) Fix Place of Work: You should have a place alloted for doing all the bookbinding work. Do not wander everytime looking for a space to do your work. If possible keep all the equipment, material and everything related to bookbinding at one place.

2) If you feel frustrated at any point then just leave the work. You will spoil it if you continue at such time. All the hard work will be wasted for a simple mistake.

3) Stitching : If your bookbinding involves stitching then you will need more patience at this compared to other processes. Practice proper stitching on rough papers or a piece of cloth to give that confidence.

4) Keep the Spine correct : You may be knowing the importance of healthy spine in humans. If something goes wrong then you know how difficult life can become. Similarly for a healthy book the spine should be correct. If the spine is not proper then the book may face serious problems.

5) Start small : Last but not the least, take small steps while bookbinding. Do a part of the work at any given time and after a period of time you will reach the end successfully.

I hope you benefit from these instructions and apply them to get better at bookbinding. Don't forget to leave a comment. Share your own instructions or any tips for getting better at bookbinding.

If you want to get the best bookbinding instructions Just "Click Here". You will definitely learn everything you need to know about bookbinding.

8 Important Bookbinding Instructions-Part 1

2008-01-05T15:59:00.003+05:30

Bookbinding can become hectic and difficult if you are not organized and try to do it all at once. Learning to get organized and planning correctly will help to achieve success in any field. For bookbinding also you need to keep somethings in mind. Here are 3 of the 8 bookbinding instructions

1) Patience: Patience is the first thing to keep in mind. It is really very important. Sometimes things go wrong which will cost additional time. Always keep your mind at the work you are doing and do not let it wander somewhere. So you should always keep cool and do not worry if something went wrong.

"Always learn from your mistakes"

2) Simple plan: The next thing is to keep a simple plan of how you will complete the work. Doing all the things at one go will make it burdensome and you may not come back to this work the next time. You can try a plan like this. First list all the processes that you have to perform to get the end result. Now write the time each task will take beside it. Everybody has different speeds. See that you time the process according to your speed. Now just divide that work at different
times of the day or week. Having everything written down on a piece of paper will ensure smooth work.

"If you fail to plan, you are planning to fail"

3) Material: Take a paper and list all the materials required for your bookbinding project. Always keep more quantity of the materials than you require. This way you won't need to go and buy the material when all of a sudden you realize that you don't have something. Keep the materials at one place ( like in a box, cupboard etc. ) so that you will have everything in a single glance.

In the second part we will see the remaining instructions. If you have anything to say then do share your comments.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 13

2008-01-05T15:59:00.002+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Checker Board

A CHECKERBOARD
First decide on the size of the small squares, remembering that there are eight in each direction. Also allow for a margin, outside the squares, which should vary in proportion to the size of the squares. A single or double border line enclosing the squares is a desirable addition. (See B, Plate XIV.)

Make working drawings of the foundation, the front covering of vellum, and the back covering of lining paper. In selecting vellum for this model, have in mind the application of a color which is to be used on alternate squares. Either deep red vellum with alternate squares of black or dull green vellum with alternate squares of red is a good combination.

Layout and cut all parts, using the card cutter for the news board, and the scissors for the vellum and the lining paper. As in previous models, lay foundation on the back of the piece of vellum, draw around it, and cover with paste the surface enclosed by the pencil lines.

Again place the foundation on the vellum, press it down hard, turn over both pieces and rub the vellum on the right side until it is smooth. When thoroughly rubbed down, paste laps, being careful to make neat corners. Paste on lining paper and dry under weight.

During a subsequent lesson, mark out the checkerboard, accurately, with rule and pencil. Only alternate squares need be colored, and this may be done with water colors, crayon, or pencil. If water colors are chosen, they should be used with as little water as possible.

Before applying the paint to the vellum, the glaze of the surface may be reduced by rubbing over it the powder which comes from common white chalk. Rub the powder in with the fingers and lightly brush off what remains. On a separate piece of vellum, practice the application of color before applying it to the checkerboard, both to test the color itself, and to become somewhat familiar with the best method of application. After the paint is thoroughly dry, the surface may be cleaned by rubbing carefully with a piece of cloth. Finish by putting on the outside border line with pencil.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 12

2008-01-05T15:59:00.001+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Needle Case

A. A NEEDLE CASE
As shown at a in Plate XIV, the needle case should be planned to hold four papers of needles, two at each end. The size of the case will depend on the size of the papers of needles, and must be planned accordingly.

Make the width a little more than twice the width of a paper of needles, and allow a little space lengthwise between the papers of needles to permit their easy removal. The pockets are formed of strips of vellum pasted on to each end of the foundation, and their depth should be a little more than half the length of a paper of needles.

An accurate working drawing of the completed case should be made (see Plate XV). From this, mark out and cut the news board to the correct size. The front covering of vellum should have laps on the sides only and may well be a little shorter than the foundation. Make freehand, dimensioned sketches of this piece, of the vellum pockets, and of the marbled paper. The pockets should have 1/2 inch laps on three sides for pasting to the back.

On the other edge, which is to be free, allow at least an eighth of an inch to be turned over like a hem onto the wrong side for a neat finish. The paper for the back should be one-fourth of an inch narrower and shorter than the foundation.

Mark out and cut with the scissors, the pieces of vellum and marbled paper. The front covering should be pasted on first. Before pasting the pockets (which should be fastened to the back only) turn over the hem, and crease it hard, but do not paste. The hem will extend onto the side laps. From these laps cut off the under side of the hem that it may not be double. Paste on the pockets and the back. Dry all under weight.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 11

2008-01-05T15:59:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Mount for Memorandum Pad

Secure a small pad, and plan a mount to extend beyond the pad 1/8 of an inch or more on each side. Draw plans, work out, and paste as in A. Instead of a loop by which to suspend the pad, make a holder for a pencil to be placed on the right side of the mount. Cut a strip of vellum one-half or three quarters the length of the mount. At each end of the strip turn about 1/8 inch onto the wrong side to give a finished edge.

To secure the correct size, fold the strip over the pencil to be used, and, with the pencil still folded in, paste the two long edges of the strip together, and then to the back of the news board, having it placed midway between the top and bottom edges. The pasting of the back covering then follows. Remove the cardboard back from the pad before pasting it to the mount. Dry under weight.

C. POCKET MEMORANDUM PAD
This is intended to be carried in the pocket, and its size should be governed by its use. Avoid rectangles which approximate the square, but choose rather such proportions as 2: 3 or 2~: 4. As in A, make working drawings for the three pieces. If desired, the first drawing may be of the completed face. (See Plate XIII.) Layout and cut all parts. On the front piece of vellum lay the news board as in A, and draw around it.

From the corners indicated by the pencil lines measure equal distances along adjacent lines, and connect the points by straight lines. Be careful not to make these lines too near the corners, ¾ of an inch to 1 inch being a good measurement for a small pad. Cut on these lines with a sharp knife, or folding the ends of the line together cut along the line with scissors.

Apply paste to the front piece, being careful not to paste outside the slanting lines at the corners, for this space should be left free to hold the sheets of paper. One way to protect these corners is to insert a piece of news board or paper in the slits, from the right side of the vellum, so that the corners on the wrong side are covered.

The paste may then be applied with freedom. Remove the protecting piece of news board and paste the vellum to the foundation. Finish as in A without the hanger, or, if desired, add pencil holder as in B. Cut several sheets of white paper 1/8 of an inch smaller than the news board, and, when the paste is thoroughly dry, insert them in the slits.

D. BLOTTER
Like C except that it should be large enough to hold a school blotter. Increase the size of the corners to be proportionate to the size of the blotter.

Perfect Bookbinding Video - Part 2

2007-12-31T07:20:00.005+05:30

Here is the second part of perfect bookbinding video

Perfect Bookbinding Video - Part 1

2007-12-31T07:20:00.004+05:30

Watch the first part of a video which has perfect bookbinding instructions

Bookbinding for Beginners - 10

2007-12-31T07:20:00.003+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Mount a Calendar or Picture Part 3

Before pasting projecting parts, the corners should be cut. Two methods are shown in the illustrations. In the first, two adjacent projections are turned onto the back of the foundation. Be careful that they fit very closely to the sides of the news board, press down with the fingers, and hold them very firmly. At the corner will be a surplus piece which should be pinched to stand upright. Slanting the scissors very slightly upward, cut from the corner toward the center. (See Plate XI).

The second method is to make slanting cuts from the outside of the vellum toward the corners of the news board. (See Plate XII). Apply paste to the projecting sides, fold over and rub down; treat the ends in the same manner. If it is desired that the completed mount shall hang on the wall, make a loop of ribbon, tape, or vellum.

If tape or ribbon is used, choose the color very carefully; that which matches the vellum is the best choice; but, if a contrast is preferred; choose a soft color which has some quality in harmony with the vellum. Paste this loop to the back of the foundation, allowing it to project above the top. Apply paste to the back covering and rub it down very firmly, being careful that no loose edges are left.

Instead of pasting on a loop, a hole may be punched near the top with the eyelet punch, and an eyelet inserted. This should be done after the back is pasted on. According to plan; paste on the calendar or picture. Dry all under a weight.

If several mounts are to be placed under the same weight, it is better that each should be separated from the others by a sheet of blotting paper, or several thicknesses of newspaper. Allow them to stand over night. In the morning they will be found sufficiently pressed.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 9

2007-12-31T07:20:00.002+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Mount a Calendar or Picture Part 2

The pieces of material given out should be a little larger than the finished size, although unnecessary waste should be avoided. No attempt should be made to cut these pieces carefully or regularly. Each pupil should be led to depend on his own initiative in the use of the rule and triangle. An irregular edge which is not a guide is more educational than straightedges and right angles which are of considerable assistance.

With rule, triangle, and pencil, carefully layout each part from the drawings already made, and cut the coverings with the scissors. The foundation is more successfully cut with the paper cutter, as to cut it with scissors is a very difficult task for little hands and likely to loosen the scissors at the joint. The most desirable way is for each pupil to cut his own news board, in which case the ruler fastened to the cutter may be used to insure the correct size without any preliminary measuring. If the cutter is deemed unsafe for the pupils' use, the proper size may be marked on the news board with pencil and the pieces cut by a large boy or by the teacher.

When the" pieces have all been cut, place the news board on the back side of the front piece of vellum, with the margins equal, and draw around it. Cover the surface inside the pencil lines with a thin, even coat of paste.Much of the success of the work depends on the pasting and rubbing. The paste is of the right consistency when put up by the dealer, and if it dries somewhat after being opened, a little water thoroughly stirred in will make it all right.

The brush well filled with paste should be passed over the surface of the covering material with long even strokes. No dry spots should be left, and especial pains should be taken to cover the surface close to the pencil lines. Look across the pasted surface toward the light to see if it is entirely covered; looking directly down upon it does not reveal' the dry places. Rub the brush rather heavily over the surface to make the paste sink into the cloth.

While pasting, several sheets of newspaper are invaluable to protect the desk, the model, and the fingers. With a few quick strokes of the card-cutter, cut off the folds of a newspaper, leaving loose sheets the size of half or a quarter page. Each desk should have several sheets, placed one on top of another. When the top sheet has become sticky, discard it. A perfectly clean surface beneath it is ready to be used in the same way. Press the news board on the pasted surface, turn it over,3 and rub it down very hard on the right side of the vellum. When rubbing the vellum on the right side, a small piece of cloth for each pupil prevents finger marks, and enables the pupil to rub harder as the cloth protects the hand.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 8

2007-12-31T07:20:00.001+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Mount a Calendar or Picture

We shall now begin to deal with materials that are more exclusively employed in bookbinding work. The simple articles considered at first are not books; but because the processes involved and the materials used will be used later in the more
difficult work of binding a real book, they are made a part of this course.

The wise teacher will become somewhat familiar with handling the required materials before attempting to give instruction. It is recommended that two or more models from each problem be made by the teacher before selecting one for the class.The articles described in Problem III (See Plate VII) consist of a foundation of a single piece of news board, covered back and front with a bookbinding cloth.

A. MOUNT OF A CALENDAR OR PICTURE
First secure the article to be mounted and then determine the size and shape most desirable for the mount. Never make the mount first and then attempt to find something to fit it.To determine the size of the mount, place the calendar or picture
on a sheet of paper and find the most pleasing margins by laying a pencil on each side of the article. Increase or decrease this margin by moving the pencils back and forth until a satisfactory position is found, as shown in Plate VIII.

Indicate this position by a line on each side. In the same manner, establish top and bottom margins, illustrated by Plate IX. The margin at the top may equal that at the side, or be a trifle wider or narrower;1 the one at the bottom may equal the side margins or be wider, but never narrower, and always greater than the top margin. Draw lines for top and bottom and the size of the foundation is indicated. A fraction of an inch may be added or subtracted to give even measurements.

Working drawings should now be made of the completed model, showing the location of the calendar, also of the front and back. Make them either accurately or freehand as described in Problem IX. If the latter method is used, some sense of proportion should be observed. That is, do not draw 3 inches as long as 6 inches, nor 4 inches longer than 7 inches.

The size of the foundation has already been determined. The front covering should be 1/2 inch larger on each side than the foundation, to allow for laps which are to fold onto the back of the news board. The back covering should be from 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch smaller than the foundation on each side, as the finished product looks much neater if no raw edge is visible from the front.

In Plate X, the first drawing is of the face of the completed model showing the location of the calendar. This also shows the size of the foundation. The other two drawings show the size of the two pieces of vellum. If the first drawing seems too complicated, omit the location of the calendar, and draw and dimension only the outside rectangle to give the size of the foundation.

Perfect Binding with an A3 Glue Machine

2007-12-31T07:20:00.000+05:30

Want to see how a machine does perfect binding? Here is a short video showing how an A3 Glue machine performs this task.

Here's another video

Bookbinding for Beginners - 7

2007-12-30T15:07:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Making a Envelope Holder for the Model

A ENVELOPE HOLDER FOR THE PARTS OF A MODEL

Before preceding further, some kind of a permanent holder should be provided to keep all together the various; pieces of the model. This
prevents the confusion and loss of time incident to passing several kinds of materials each by itself.

One lesson might be used for the making of a portfolio for this purpose, cut from screenings or
heavy wrapping paper, and patterned after an envelope, from 6" X 9" to 9" X 12" in size. (See Plate VI.) If large pads of paper are used in the schoolroom, their cardboard backs may be utilized.

Take two of the same size, punch holes along three sides of each, near the edges and lace them together. If one of the long sides of the resulting holder has been left open, materials can be removed with greater ease than if a short side is so used. A set of holders thus made is very durable. New paper bags make good holders although less desirable than either of the other two.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 6

2007-12-30T14:57:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Making a Booklet Part 2

B. Determine the purpose of the booklet first and then its size and shape. As in A draw plans of the inside and cover. With rule and pencil lay out parts on materials to be used. Cut and sew as in A. Simple lettering on the cover adds much to the appearance of the booklet. Choose a title appropriate to its contemplated use, as "NOTES," "SKETCHES," etc., which should be executed in rather large Roman capitals.

On a separate sheet, mark out an oblong of height and width desired for the title and practice on this. If title is long, make letters narrow, if short, letters may be broadened, to fill up more space. When satisfactory results are obtained, cut out and place on the cover, moving 'up and down to determine its best position. The base line of the title should be placed below the top at one-fifth to one-quarter of the entire distance from the top to the bottom of the cover. After the position is determined, the title should be transferred either by tracing or copying. The pupil's name in much smaller capitals should be worked out in the same manner and placed below the center with a somewhat wider margin at the base than at the top. Do not enclose the title in an oblong or other figure.

A single or double line as a border around the cover looks well, if carefully done. (See illustration, Plate V.)

C. For the cover use gray drawing paper, tinted, other materials as desired. Draw plans as in A and B. A larger surface than required for the cover should be tinted before it is marked out, so that any streaking along the edge may be cut off. To mix a wash of the color selected, put two or three tablespoonfuls of water in the water-cup and add a little paint until the desired tone is produced, being quite sure to have enough to cover the whole surface. Try to have the wash clean, not muddy, and beware of too much paint! The colors should be soft, not crude, and somewhat neutralized by the addition of the complementary color. The best results are produced by the use of green, pale yellow, brown, dull orange, and red. Blue is very likely to streak and is seldom satisfactory.

When ready to apply the wash, place the paper on an inclined surface--45° or more from the horizontal. A sheet of heavy cardboard or a book answers this purpose admirably. With a full brush make a horizontal stroke across the top of the paper.
The second stroke should be just below this leaving no dry spots between. Being careful to keep the brush full of paint,continue in this manner until the entire surface is covered. The surplus amount of paint which will settle along the lower edge should be taken up with the brush, which has first been squeezed dry between the thumb and finger. When the paper is dry, mark out the cover and cut. Cut out the leaves and sew as in A. The cover may be lettered as in B.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 5

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by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Making a Booklet

TIME: 4 hours.

MATERIALS: For the inside, any of the paper so listed. For the cover, any of the paper so listed. For stitching, any material so listed. The simplest form of a book consists of a cover and inside sheets in a single fold, sewed through the center. Choose materials from the lists given. Three definite methods of working out this problem are here outlined, arranged in the order of their difficulty. Other combinations will suggest themselves. METHOD A. First determine the purpose for which the booklet is to be used, and decide on shape and size of page best suited to this purpose. If for spelling or pocket memoranda, it may be long and narrow; if for language a larger page is desirable; or if for map work, the size and shape of the maps should be considered.

Take any sheet of paper and experiment in folding to obtain satisfactory size and proportions. A single sheet of paper folded through the center is called a folio. This sheet will be twice the width of a page and of the same length. (Commercially, a folio is made from paper varying from 22 x 16 to 44 x 32. Therefore, books to which this term is applied are generally of large size.)

With pencil and rule draw a plan of the open folio and properly dimension the drawing. (See Plate 1.) If there has been no previous training in simple mechanical drawing, the use of extension and dimension lines, arrow heads, and the proper placing of figures should be explained. If some proficiency in this kind of drawing has been acquired, a freehand sketch may take the place of an accurate drawing.

Plate II. Shows some of the line conventions used in making a working drawing. In the same manner as for the pages, draw a plan of the cover, which should project beyond the pages form 1/8 to Â¼ of an inch. Layout and cut the cover and one sheet for the inside, keeping carefully on the lines.

Having cut one sheet of the inside, lay the sheet on as many pieces of the paper as are needed, (from three to seven make a booklet of desirable thickness); then make a hole with a pin or needle at each corner, piercing all at one time. On each sheet draw the four sides, using rule and pencil.

This is easier than to measure each one. The folded sheets should be placed one inside the other to form the inside of the booklet, and the whole placed inside the folded cover, with the edges of the cover projecting slightly. With a needle make a hole through the center of the fold, and another near each end of the fold (from one-half an inch to an inch and a half from the end) according to the size of the booklet, as shown in Plate III. With thread or raffia sew

through the center hole, from the inside out, back to the inside through an end hole, outside through the center hole, inside through the other end hole, and tie the ends in a square knot (see illustration, Plate IV) near the center of the fold. Other equally satisfactory methods of sewing may be worked out.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 4

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by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Equipment

This equipment is sufficient for the whole course and should last for several years. A strong, wooden box with compartments insures an orderly arrangement of tools and prevents breakage. Several rooms may use the same equipment and by means of the box, transpiration is greatly facilitated. Some system of distributing and collecting material should be devised, and not more than five minutes consumed in making preparations for work. One for each pupil - Rule, Pro 6-inch Scissors, Pencil, medium Tapestry Needle, No. Ii, Wooden

Triangle; 45°, 7-inch For class use, the number to be governed by the way in which they are to be used, by the amount of money to be expended. For twenty-five pupils, 12 paste-brushes and 5 punches answer very well. Paste-brushes 1 inch flat, Eyelet Punches, One of each helpful, but not necessary, Paper Cutter, 12 inch to 15 inch
Straight Edge, Large Shears

MATERIALS

The materials necessary for this course may be purchased from any of the large school supply houses, or from dealers in bookbinders' supplies. Before an order is given, it is recommended that the materials be seen, at least in sample, as names sometimes vary in different commercial houses. The sizes and prices are also liable to variation. In
selecting colored papers, avoid brilliant hues, and choose soft colors.

FOR STIFF FOUNDATION

News board 26" x 38" News board is in reality a box board, and differs from binders' board in the quality of the fiber. But for such articles as are described in this course,. it is the more satisfactory of the two. Both news board and binders' board are sold in bundles each weighing 50 Ibs. The board is numbered according to the number of sheets in the bundle. Thus no. 50 means that the bundle contains 50 sheets. Board of this number is light in weight, easily handled by small children, and is well suited to the articles here described. lost book covers are made of No. 30 (30 sheets to the bundle). which is twice as thick as Xo.60. The sheets of news board are rather large to be handled conveniently. If desired, they will be cut in quarters by the dealer at slight expense.

FOR COVERING FOUNDATION

Vellum deluxe 38" wide Vellum deluxe is a sized and tinted cloth of an inexpensive grade of cotton. which is quite suitable for the purposes of this course. If material of a higher grade is desired, art canvas (21c per yard), art vellum (17c per yard), etc., may be purchased. These come in a great variety of colors. It is better to use but one color in the class for economy's sake, but, if this is not to be considered, different articles may be of different colors. Choose quiet colors such as "old blue," "dull green," "deep red."

Cover Paper (light weight) 22" x 28"

FOR Lining - Marbled Paper - Bark wove Paper - FOR Limp COVERS - Screenings - Cover Paper - Kraft Paper - Drawing Paper (gray) - Red Rope manila - Oak tag stock - Tough check

FOR Inside - Page Paper - Page Paper - Drawing Paper (white) - Drawing Paper (gray) - Drawing Paper (man.) - Newspaper (white) - FOR Stitching AND Sewing - Linen Thread - Silk - Raffia (plain) - Raffia (colored)

ACCESSORIES
Eyelets 250 in box Purchase eyelets of the same make as the eyelet punch (see list of equipment), since those of a different make are not always an exact fit.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 3

2007-12-30T09:25:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Materials Introduction

Among the various materials which lend themselves readily to a manual training course with large classes are those of the bookbinders' craft. They are inexpensive, easily handled, and require no tools or equipment that cannot be used in an ordinary class-room. The operations necessary in the use of these materials not only give excellent training in manual dexterity, but present remarkable opportunities for the practical application of studies in proportion, space division, color, lettering and applied design.

The craft itself is one that comes in touch with everyday life and any skill acquired in the use of these materials is of permanent value. The lessons to be outlined in the following series presuppose some instruction in paper-folding, cardboard construction, and simple mechanical drawing. Though desirable, this is not essential. While in some ways better suited to the middle grades of the elementary schools, selection may be made from the lessons here outlined which will give excellent training to the upper grades in those schools where the curriculum does not include shop-work, cooking, or sewing. To secure this flexibility of the course, each problem is outlined in several ways, with varying degrees of difficulty. The selection should depend upon the grade in which it is to be given. Some of the more dexterous pupils may be able to work out a problem in several ways.

In each lesson outlined, there is a chance for the exercise of individuality in the details of the model as to size, shape, decoration, and color. Concerning choice of material, it seems wiser that this should be exercised by the teacher or supervisor rather than by the pupil.

The object of the course is educational, not industrial, therefore, those methods which stimulate inventiveness, ability to plan simple work, and dependence oil one's own initiative are most desirable. The directions given under each problem have been so worded that they call for the greatest amount of thought and initiative on the part of the worker. The use of such instruction develops power to think, to plan constructive work and to carry it to completion. At first, it may be necessary for the teacher to elaborate some points especially in connection with the working drawings or sketches, but after a little training, each pupil should be able to layout and cut all parts from his own drawings; as the work progresses, he should depend less and less upon the teacher's assistance in making; his plans.

High standards of work and correct processes should always be set before the pupil, and these are best assured by the teacher becoming thoroughly conversant not only with the general construction of an article to be made, but with the best methods of securing neat and accurate results. Eventually, the pupil's mental attainments will show in the tangible work of his hands.

Two hours each week for one school year may profitably be devoted to this work. It is advised that in the intermediate grades no attempt be made to sew a book on a frame, nor more than one book without a frame. In the upper grades some of the easier problems should be omitted.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 2

2007-12-30T09:20:00.000+05:30

by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Foreward

The growing demand for various forms of manual training in the lower elementary grades has led to the publication of this little volume of "problems in elementary bookbinding,"based on the work done in the fifth grade of the Boston public schools, where their practicability has been fully demonstrated. Some of the most valuable suggestions have been obtained from the teachers and are an outgrowth of their class-room experience. Nothing is here presented which
is simply theoretical.

To Mr. John C. Brodhead, a deep appreciation of his keen criticism, his helpful suggestions, and his never-failing interest cannot be too strongly expressed. For their valued suggestions, thanks are due the teachers of Boston whose efficient labors have insured the success of the course. Acknowledgment is also made of indebtedness to the Sloyd Training School for material, and to Miss Helen E. Cleaves and Mr. Ludwig Frank for their interest and assistance in the details pertaining to design.

THE AUTHOR.

Bookbinding for Beginners - 1

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by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools

Bookbinding Introduction

The present day demand for industrial education has had the effect of somewhat discrediting the more formal manual training commonly found in the upper elementary grades and early high school years. This work is usually conducted in special shops and by special teachers, and the question is being raised whether, with all these advantages, more vital results might not be attained.

Whether these criticisms are justified or not, the present interest in industrial education is strengthening the demand for more effective construction work in grades four, five and six. It is a growing conviction that there must be laid, in the earlier grades, a strong foundation on which to build a practical education in the later grades whether directed toward industrial, commercial or professional life.

The appearance of this book, therefore, is timely be cause it outlines a course suitable for grades five and six which stimulates constructive activities and develops industrial intelligence. It should be noted that its industrial significance is much wider than its title, "Bookbinding for Beginners," would indicate, as even a hasty examination of the book will show, and also that it is so planned that it may be used successfully in schools where special teachers and expensive equipments are impossible.

The book is different from, and, I believe, superior to others of its kind for the following reasons:

First, because the projects it presents, the methods it advises, and the results it anticipates have all been worked out by actual experience with thousands of boys and under conditions which may be duplicated in almost any schoolroom. The author's personal experience with the problems incident to the giving of manual training by the grade teacher includes that which she gained as a successful grade teacher herself, supplemented by some years of supervisory work in a large city system. She is therefore conversant with every possible phase of the school problem.

Second, because the methods of instruction which the book employs are such as to develop in the pupils the very qualities which are the surest foundation for subsequent success in manual or mental work of any kind, namely initiative and originality combined with intelligent, logical, careful attention to details.

Third, because it gives the teacher just the help needed to save her from all unnecessary work in securing and handling suitable material, in stimulating the pupils to intensive activity and self-expression, and in judging or measuring the results of her work, without relieving her of the necessity of intelligent effort on her part. It thus gives the overburdened teacher the maximum help, and the specially interested, the maximum opportunity for original supplementary work.

For the above reasons, I confidently recommend the volume to the attention of all who are seeking to introduce an inexpensive but effective form of manual training into the middle grades of the elementary schools.

Frank M. Leavitt

AssocIate Professor, Industrial Education.

University of Chicago.

Bookbinding for Beginners

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Bookbinding for Beginners is a book written by Florence O. Bean - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools and published by School Arts Publishing Company 1914.

Index

Bookbinding Introduction
Foreword
Materials Introduction
Sketch Book
Equipment
Making a Booklet
Making a Booklet Part 2
Making a Envelope Holder for a Model
Mounting a Calendar or Picture
Mounting a Calendar or Picture Part 2
Mounting a Calendar or Picture Part 3
Mount for a Memorandum Pad
Needle Case
Checker Board

How to bind a Hardcover Book?

2007-12-29T10:23:00.000+05:30

Binding a hardcover book is not as hard as you may be thinking. Once you know the process you can do it easily. But before you get a perfect hardcover book you'll need to practice. You know the old saying " Practice makes a man perfect". Same is the case here. If you are doing this the first time use some rough materials. After you have some confidence you can go for the original books. Here is a simple tutorial on how to bind a hardcover book.

First of all see that you have all the materials ready. Here is a list

signatures
hard cover
sharp object for making small holes
heavy thread
PVA glue
blade
ruler
thick paper for wrapping around the cover

The procedure for creating a hardcover book is as follows

Take the topmost paper and fold it to half. The spine is present at the fold. Keep all the papers below it in correct order. Now make four holes on the spine. See that all the papers have the holes at the same points.
Fold all the pages and make a signature by grouping four to six pages.
Now comes the difficult part - stitching. For the first signature take the needle into the first hole, out of the second hole, then into the third hole and then out of the fourth hole. This is for first signature.
Take the second stack and attach to the first one. Take the needle through the first hole of second stack, then into second hole. From here go to the second hole of first signature, then through third hole of first stack. Now go to the third hole of second signature then through the fourth. This will attach the two signatures. Continue in this way for other stacks. In order to practice take four signatures and stitch to get the correct idea.
After stitching all the signatures apply the PVA glue thoroughly over the entire spine. Clamp this strongly and let it dry completely.
Meanwhile take the hard cover and cut two pieces the size of the paper. Cut one more for fitting on the spine. lace these three pieces of cover on a large thick paper ( for wrapping around the cover ) Apply glue and stick the cover pieces on the thick paper.The cover is now ready.
Now apply glue on the spine of the cover and the book. Attach them together and hold them tightly using a clamp. Let them dry.
The next day you will have your own hardcover book.

The above steps will help you to bind a hardcover book in one day. Initially it may take some time because you are just learning. After you become perfect you will be creating your own harcover books quickly and effeciently.

How to do Perfect Binding Easily

2007-12-25T15:33:00.000+05:30

Perfect binding is technique in which a paper cover is attached to a stack of signatures with the help of glue. Some other terms which are used for perfect binding are paperback binding, lay-flat bind and Euro bind.

Material Required:

signatures
a cover ( thicker than the papers )
glue ( white or gorilla glue, Hot glue, PVA glue etc. )
scissors
brush for spreading the glue

Procedure:

First of all arrange the signatures together. See that all the four sides are aligned properly. If any side is out of order then just trim it.
To keep the entire thing in perfect order clamp it along the spine edge. For thin books you can use strong paperclips.
Using a sand paper roughen up the side along the spine end. It will help to bind the signatures strongly when you apply the glue.
Now take some glue and spread it on the spine edge completely. Let this thing dry and after that apply the glue one more time. It will ensure that the signatures are connected strongly. Hold this together by using clamps on the spine edge.
Lastly it is the time for applying the cover. When the glue has dried completely take the cover and fold it to match the spine. Use a ruler to fold the edges properly. Now apply glue on the spine and attach the cover. Keep this strongly held till it dries completely.

After drying you will have your very own perfect bound book. See, in just 5 simple steps you can make your very own book.

All the best!!!

Bookbinding by Hand

2007-12-25T13:00:00.000+05:30

Here is a good tutorial which will help you to bind books.

Enjoy!!!

3 Simple Bookbinding Techniques

2007-12-25T12:53:00.000+05:30

If you are just starting out then it will be better to start simple. Going with simple methods will boost your self confidence. Then you'll be able to go for other techniques. Here are 3 methods you should start with

1) Staple Binding: This is the simplest method for binding a book. You can use this for notebooks and rough books. Take stack of papers and fold them so that the two corners meet. Use a thick paper or card papers for the cover. Cover the folded papers with this. If the book is small you can use a small stapler for center stapling. For long books a long arm stapler or saddle stapler can be used. Make two or three staples in the centre and your book will be ready.

2) Saddle stitching: Saddle stitching a book is easy and the book will be strongly bound. Keep a stack of papers and cover together just like in the above case. To hold the papers together use a strong paperclip near the center. Keep these on something such that you can make holes in the center. Now make holes with a sharp object on the spine. You can make 2 holes nearer to the
edges of spine and stitch with a strong thread. You can also make three or four holes and stitch accordingly. This will hold the book together.

3) Perfect binding: In this method you hold a stack of signatures and clamp them together. Apply a strong glue on the spine and allow it to dry. Then apply the glue again and attach the cover firmly. Hold this position with a clamper till it dries completely.

There you go. The simplest methods for bookbinding to get you started.

Traditional technique of Bookbinding

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Here is a short video about bookbinding. It is not complete, but you may find some useful information.

Various Types of Bookbinding

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You can bind books in different ways. Some of them take less time while others may take more time. Here is a list of some bookbindings

Hardcover Binding
Tape Binding
Perfect Binding
Sewn Binding
Wire Stitching
Plastic Comb Binding
Wire-O Binding
Velobinding
Spiral Binding

These are the major types of bookbinding that you can observe. There may be other types which I have not listed. You can include them in the comments.

What is bookbinding?

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Books are the greatest source of knowledge for us. Long time ago people used to write on rocks,clay tablets, animal skin, leaves and other such stuff for storing their knowledge. This method was quite difficult to maintain. So people could not document each and every thing at that time.

After some time people invented the paper. This was good news for people of knowledge because paper is very light weight and it can be used to store much more information than the previous generations could do. When some information was noted on these papers it had to be somehow bounded together. This resulted in the craft known as bookbinding.

According to wikipedia -

"Bookbinding is the process of physically assembling a book from a number of folded or unfolded sheets of paper or other material. "

The majority of books are bounded using machines nowadays. But there are some people who enjoy doing it by hand. They make various types of bookbindings and store as artwork. Bookbinding by hand also helps self publishing authors who find difficulty with publishing houses.

These were some of the points about bookbinding and the main focus of this blog will be various things related to bookbinding by hand.